Jeep Grand Cherokee

1993-1999 of release

Repair and car operation

Jeep Grand Cherokee
+ Cars of mark Jeep Grand Cherokee
+ Options and routine maintenance
+ Рядный the six-cylinder engine
+ Engine V8
+ Procedure of the general and engine major repairs
+ Systems of cooling, heating and air conditioning
+ The power supply system and release of the fulfilled gases
+ System of an electric equipment of the engine
+ Systems of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases and engine management
+ Manual box of a gear change
+ Automatic transmission
+ Distributing box
+ Coupling and трансмиссионная a line
+ Brake system
+ Suspension bracket and steering
- Body
   The general information
   Care of a body
   Care of the panels of furnish made of vinyl
   Care of an upholstery and salon rugs
   Repair of insignificant damages кузовных panels
   Repair of considerable damages of a body
   Service of loops and locks
   Replacement wind and motionless glasses
   Removal, installation and adjustment of position of a cowl
   Removal and installation of the lock of a cowl and cable of its drive
   Removal and installation to the place of the panel of a decorative lattice of a radiator
   Removal and installation of a forward wing
   Removal and installation of bumpers
   Removal and installation of the panel of an internal upholstery of a door
   Removal, installation and adjustment of position of a door
   Removal and installation of handles, the cylinder and clamp (latch) of the lock of a door
   Removal and installation of a windowpane of a door
   Removal and installation of a regulator of a window of a door
   Removal and installation of the central console
   Removal and installation of the panel of an upholstery of a door of a back
   Removal, installation and adjustment of position of a door of a back
   Replacement of an emphasis of a door of a back
   Removal and installation of facing of a combination of devices
   Removal and installation of facings of a control panel
   Removal and control panel installation
   Removal and installation of covers of a casing of a steering column
   Removal and installation of rear-view mirrors
   Remove also lattice installation обтекателя
   Removal and installation of seats
   Control кузовные the sizes
+ System of an onboard electric equipment
+ Controls and operation receptions


Repair of insignificant damages кузовных panels

Elimination of traces of small scratches


    If the scratch superficial also does not mention panel metal, its repair is made extremely simply. For removal of particles of the lagged behind paint and a wax covering slightly rub the scratched area with thin grinding paste. Rinse the processed surface with pure water. Small brush paint over a scratch a paint applied to an external covering of surrounding panels of a body. Continue to put a paint a layer behind a layer until its surface in a scratch will not reach level of a surrounding surface of the panel. Give to a new paint полимеризоваться within at least two weeks, then polish a transitive surface заподлицо with a surface of other panel with application of very thin grinding paste. In summary cover the processed surface with wax. If has got through a paint, having reached metal of the panel and having caused its corrosion, it is necessary to apply other technology of repair. A penknife scrape out from a scratch порошкообразную a rust, then process a surface ингибиторной a paint in order to avoid corrosion development in the future. Rubber or nylon аппликатором cover the processed damaged area шпаклевкой глянцовочного type. If necessary - that is especially useful at шпаклевке narrow scratches - for formation very much мелкодисперсной pastes шпаклевка can be diluted by solvent. Before глянцовочная шпаклевка will harden in a scratch, wrap up a finger-tip a smooth cotton fabric. Then, having moistened a finger in solvent, quickly spend it along the puttied surface of a scratch. It will make a surface slightly bent. Now, after hardening шпаклевки, the processed scratch can be painted according to item 2 instructions above.

Repair of dents

At repair of dents by a priority becomes вытягивание the deformed surface for the purpose of its deducing to original level. It is not meaningful to try to achieve absolute conformity to the original is all the same it is impossible in a kind of infringement of internal structure of metal of the panel at blow. Optimum deducing of level of the pressed surface to level approximately on 3 mm below a surface of the surrounding intact site of the panel of a body. In case the dent is very superficial вытягивание it at all has no sense.


    In a case when to a concave site it is possible to reach from a panel underside it is necessary to try отрихтовать a dent from within blows of a hammer with soft the brisk. Tapping a dent, densely press to its face sheet a wooden hammer for repayment of an impulse of blow in order to avoid excessive выгибания the deformed metal of the panel. If the dent was formed on a two-layer site of the panel or access to it from an underside is impossible for any other reason, it is necessary to apply other technique вытягивания. Насверлите on a concave site of the panel some small apertures, trying, that they have appeared in most заглубленных dent areas. Then screw in apertures long саморезы, having left their heads sticking out so that it was possible to grasp them nippers. Now start to extend a dent nippers for screws. At the following stage of processing of a dent it is necessary to remove from the damaged surface and on a site in width approximately 3 sm round it. The given work is better to make by means of a wire nozzle or шкурящего a disk, established in an electrodrill cartridge, also manual processing by an emery paper however is not less effective. The preparation final stage to шпаклеванию is процарапывание the bared metal of a dent a screw-driver or a fragment of a file or drilling in it of small apertures for maintenance of the maximum adhesion шпаклевки to a metal surface. Further it is possible to pass to performance of procedures шпаклевания and colourings.

Repair of the rusted apertures and holes


    With the help шкурящего or the wire nozzle, clamped in an electrodrill cartridge remove all traces of a paint from the damaged area and on a site in width about 3 sm round it. In case of absence of possibility of use of an electrodrill work can be executed not less effectively manually an emery paper. Whether after paint removal it is possible to estimate a damage rate of metal corrosion and to be defined has sense to start repair or it will be more reasonable to replace the panel entirely (if it basically probably). New panels can be got far not so expensively as it many motorists think. Frequently it appears much faster and even to establish the new panel more economically, than to make repair of extensive damages of a body. Remove from the damaged panel all elements of furnish of a body, except for what can serve as a reference point for a reconstruction of the original form of the deformed sites (such as facing of block headlights, etc.). By means of scissors on metal or ножовочного cloths remove pieces of metal all freely dangling, poorly fixed and hopelessly damaged by corrosion, then unbend edges of an aperture a hammer inside for the purpose of formation of deepening for a premise in it шпаклевочного a material. By means of a metal brush remove from the damaged metal порошкообразную a rust. If there is an access to an underside of the damaged site, process it ингибитором corrosion. Before the beginning шпаклевания the aperture is necessary for muffling. It can be made a way приклепывания or screwings up to the damaged site from its return party of a piece of a tin or having blocked an aperture a wire grid. After aperture blocking the damaged site can be puttied and painted (the subsection of Shpaklevanie and colouring more low) see.

Шпаклевание and colouring


    The set of types кузовных шпаклевок is issued, however, it is necessary to notice that for the given type of works is better paste with the hardener placed in a tube approaches applied complete with sets for repair кузовных panels шпаклевочная. To reach smoothness and correctness of a contour of the puttied surface, paste should be put flexible plastic or nylon аппликатором. Strictly following instructions of manufacturers (their infringement can lead to wrong hardening шпаклевочной weights), get mixed up insignificant quantity шпаклевки on a pure wooden or cardboard surface (carefully use a hardener). Аппликатором put шпаклевку on respective in the image the prepared surface of the damaged site кузовной to the panel. For achievement of a desirable contour of a surface and level шпаклевки each dab аппликатором should pass through all repaired surface. As soon as the contour of the puttied surface will appear close to original, immediately stop to put шпаклевку as that, stiffening will begin подлипать to аппликатору, forming lumps and leaving the tease on a processed surface. Continue to put layers of paste with intervals about 20 minutes until level of the puttied surface not begins to act slightly over surrounding metal of the panel. After hardening шпаклевки, its surplus can be removed by means of a file. The stage зашкуривания and polishings of the puttied surface further begins. Is better for this purpose the waterproof emery paper of import manufacture (as in it uniform granularity of an abrasive and its good adhesion to a basis is observed) approaches. It is necessary to begin with a coarse-grained paper № 180 and, on progressing reducing granularity, it is possible to finish on № 600. To reach adequate planeness of a processed surface a paper it is necessary to wrap up preliminary around бруска from dense rubber (a tree or polyfoam) or to paste on it. In the course of processing the paper should be moistened with water regularly and often. Such technology allows to reach absolute smoothness and flatness of a processed surface at the final stage. At the given stage the processed damaged surface should appear surrounded with the ring of the pure bared metal which is coming to an end with gradually coming to naught edge of a good paint. Rinse the processed surface with pure water, washout from it everything formed during polishing an abrasive. From aerosol баллончика sprinkle the processed surface a thin layer of a light first coat. It will allow to reveal all defects admitted during polishing which can be eliminated a way покрывания their layer fresh шпаклевки. Repeat a stage зашкуривания and polishings. Repeat to alternate шпаклевание, processing and a first coat of a surface before reception of satisfactory result. On termination of rinse the processed surface with water and dry it. Now the surface is ready to colouring. Car colouring аэрозолью should be made at motionless, dry, warm, and not dusty air. Most full meet the given requirements of a condition of the volume closed and heated premise. If circumstances compel to spend body colouring in the open air, it is necessary to concern with all gravity a choice of suitable weather conditions. At work indoors beat a dust, having sprinkled a floor water. If colouring of only separate panel of a body of the car is made, cover the intact panels surrounding it. This safety measure will allow to reduce to a minimum effect of insignificant difference in tones of old and fresh paints. As the chromeplated decorative strips, door handles, etc., also it is necessary to cover such elements of furnish (and it is better - to remove). For protection of surfaces not subject to colouring take advantage of a sticky tape and old newspapers which should be imposed in some layers. Before starting use aerosols, carefully stir up баллончик, then sprinkle a paint a trial surface, fulfilling technics of colouring. Cover the surface prepared for colouring with a powerful layer of a first coat. The thickness to be reached at the expense of recurrence of drawing of a first coat by thin layers. Without feeling sorry some water, a moisture resistant emery paper №600 process the grounded surface, achieving its absolute smoothness. Before starting definitive colouring allow to a first coat to dry out completely. Put a layer of a decorative paint, again achieving a thickness at the expense of recurrence of its drawing. Colouring begin from the centre of a repaired site, making a hand with баллончиком circular movements, expanding their radius on a spiral until there will be covered all damaged area, plus still a ring the in surrounding good width about five centimetres. Later 10 - 15 minutes (it is better not later not to damage edge beginning to stiffen a fresh paint) after drawing of last paint coat unstick covering surrounding panels of a body of the newspaper and a sticky tape. A paint definitively полимеризуется within approximately two weeks then, for smoothing of transition of a fresh paint, process the restored surface very thin шлифовочной paste. In summary put on the panel a wax layer.


    In the absence of access to the back party of the panel of a body for dent percussion, it should be extended by means of a hammer with sliding the brisk. In the deepest place of a dent, or along its border, насверлите or fill small apertures on distance not less than 2,5 sm from each other...
    ... Then screw in a hammer rod in an aperture and put it in action. Tap with a usual hammer at dent edge to help metal to accept the initial form. After the termination of this procedure the dent surface should come nearer to the initial contour and approximately on 0,3 sm acts over проверхностью surrounding metal.
    By means of a rough emery paper, remove a paint to naked metal. It is possible to make it manually, but the adaptation shown on a photo, will help you to accelerate process. By means of more thin, approximately №320, an emery paper bring to nothing a paint in radius not less than 2,5 sm round a dent site.
    After removal of a paint it is better to check up to the touch, than by sight, whether enough the metal surface is equal. Begin to knock a hammer of camber and-or extend впадипны there where it is necessary. Clear a restored surface a wax or silicone spot remover.
    Following instructions on packing, mix a pack plastic шпаклевки with a hardener. The mixing proportion is critical and if you break it, шпаклевка will fall asleep too slowly or too quickly (and you will not have time to put it and to give the necessary form).
    Working quickly not to allow to fall asleep шпаклевке, with the help пластиковог аппликатора with pressing put it on a metal surface, making sure that there is a full gearing to metal. Process шпаклевку that it has taken the form, close to the initial form of a site and slightly towered over surrounding surface.
    Allow шпаклевке to fall asleep to such condition that it could be pressed through, only a nail. By means of a file or the adaptation shown on a photo, roughly process шпаклевку.
    By means of the rough emery paper fixed on a plate or бруске, process шпаклевку that it became smooth and equal. Gradually pass to more and more thin grades of a paper, always using a plate or брусок, and законсите processing by number 360 or 400.
    As a result of processing the hand should not feel border of transition from шпаклевки to naked metal and from naked metal to an old paint. If this purpose is reached, remove a dust and cover the next panels and furnish details.
    Put some layers of a first coat on a processed surface. Do not spray too much first coat that it did not flow down, and after drawing ткаждого a layer let's previous dry up. Usually here the professional pistol-razbryzgivatel is used, but in shops of autospare parts there is on sale a first coat in inexpensive aerosol packing.
    The first coat will help to reveal defects or scratches. Fill from polishing paste. Following instructions on packing, process its thin (№360 or 400) an emery paper to smoothness. Repeat polishing, putting polishing paste and grinding it until the grounded surface does not become absolutely smooth.
    Finish polishing by very thin paper (№400 or 600) to remove surpluses of a first coat. Wash up a site of processing by water and allow to it to dry up. Use a sticky napkin for full removal of a dust, then put a layer of an external paint. Do not try to rub or put a wax covering on the given site until the paint will not dry up completely (not less than two weeks).